When In Dallas

Visit 400 Grandi.

I recommend the Tagliatelle Alla Bolognese. It’s a dense mound of pasta ribbons dressed in meat ragu. The taste and texture is from another world. The dish conquered my ageusia.

Order the Salami Board for savory tidbits of cured meats and cheeses, Italian bread and pickled vegetables for a pre-entree rehearsal.

If there’s room, the Calzone Nutella is a quirky treat that tastes like it sounds.

No wine, sadly. I was dining with abstinent Baptists. When in Rome.

Our waiter gave us a show. I estimate his dreadlocks weighed twenty pounds. He was a storyteller, a personable host and he had us laughing when he visited to check on us and freshen drinks.

Italian restaurants have a dreamy, subterranean feel after dark.

High ceilings. Sunken booths. Vines. Stony walls. The snug bends and turns of the design. It’s like being in the grotto of a Mediterranean Count. A secret place were you say an ancient password for admission.

What a night.

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